Kooyong Estate
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Location: Mornington Peninsula
James Halliday Rating: 4 stars
Chris and Gail Aylward established Kooyong in 1995. The Aylwards were introduced to the wine industry when purchasing a farm at Shoreham, on the Mornington Peninsula. The site contained three acres of Chardonnay vines.
At this time the Peninsula was rapidly expanding, establishing itself as a premium Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grape-growing region of Australia. Both these varieties were suited to this cool maritime climate. The Aylwards were inspired to develop a second site, specifically selected for its potential to produce top quality fruit. Wine released under the Kooyong label comes exclusively from this site.
The year 1998, plans for a large and modern winery were devised and construction began. Chris Aylward's experience as a property developer with the Grollo brothers helped erect an impressive winery for Kooyong's operations. State of the art equipment was installed to give the winemaking team the best possible opportunity in processing, fermenting and storing top quality wine.
Kooyong lays claim to 52 acres of Pinot Noir and 27 acres of Chardonnay vines. Kooyong strives for complexity in its wines by exercising 8 different clones of Pinot and 10 clones of Chardonnay. Each clone has its own inherent characteristic. When blended together, they give the wine its many flavors and textures.
The Mornington Peninsula is 60km South-East of Melbourne, Victoria in Australia. The peninsula features an undulating ridge system, which receives considerable rainfall throughout the year. The soils vary from rich red clays, to lighter sandy loams depending on location
Kooyong's location was selected specifically to suit production of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grape varieties. Many vineyards on the Mornington Peninsula struggle with excessive canopy production due to the rich fertile soils. This is often translated in the wine as 'green' or lacking body.
The sandy base of Kooyong's 'terroir' helps reduce this vigor. Even so, Kooyong uses a variety of canopy management techniques to ensure high quality, concentrated grape production. Some of these include shoot thinning and fruit dropping.
Kooyong is situated on the Moorooduc flats of the Mornington Peninsula. The land is slightly graded facing a north direction. The vineyard has been planted with rows running from South to North, which ensures maximum sunlight exposure. The vines are planted using the vertical shoot position (VSP) trellising system. The vines have been spaced out to reduce shading and increase fruit exposure to sunlight.
Kooyong is well equipped with an advanced irrigation system. This allows us to administer water to each vine depending on the stress levels expressed by the vines. Kooyong's site receives less rainfall per annum than surrounding vineyards on the Mornington ridge system. The use of an irrigation network enables a high degree of control over the development of both the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines.
Kooyong's winemaker, Sandro Moselle, gained experience while making wine at Rochford, Macedon Victoria and the Green Vineyards in the Yarra Valley with Serge Carlei. He holds a degree in Genetics and has also completed a Bachelor of Applied Science (Wine Science)
Reviews

Divine Food & Wine Nov-Jan 2003
2000 Pinot Noir
This wine is not for the faint-hearted. For many Australians Pinot drinkers it will seem to be the opposite of what they expect pinot to be because it doesn't' fit in to the lighter, less structured cherry cola style wines that seem to be the norm. Sadly, too many Australian pinots are choked full of sweet fruit while low in tannins. The Kooyong reminds me of ripe Pommard. Toasty oak wraps around a core of ripe, black cherry fruit, backed up by plenty of strong, fine earthy tannins. A richly structured and intense wine, that simply needs more time for all the pieces to come together. And when they do, it will be a force to be reckoned with.
Inside Out October 2002
Kooyong Pinot Noir & Chardonnay
One of the best of the many boutique producers struggling to carve out a niche in the increasingly competitive wine-shop market. Kooyong produces excellent examples of what Victoria's Mornington Peninsula arguably does best – chardonnay and pinot noir. The 2000 Chardonnay, is fantastically intense and powerful, like the best Aussie chardonnay can be, while the 2000 Pinot Noir, is also a full-bodied example of the grape, with dark colour and firm, complex forest-fruit flavour.
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2001 Kooyong Chardonnay
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The wine has many varied flavours on the bouquet. Citrus fruit is quite noticeable but there is a strong mineral/earthy component that would seem to be a trademark of Kooyong Chardonnay. Adding to the complexity are some smoky roasted nuts, honey and some subtle sulphide or matchstick notes. To complete the picture some oak-derived vanilla is also evident.
All these flavours and more comprise the palate which, although rich, never threatens to overwhelm. Other flavours like peach; nectarine and some straw like characters put in an appearance once the wine is in your mouth. There is a thick creamy texture yet the finish is dry and crisp with plenty of acid. With this structure at the finish the wine should keep for several years although it is drinking superbly right now.
“Appealing light green-gold colour; at once complex yet understated, with beautiful balance and integration of all the flavour components.”
91pts – James Halliday Wine Companion 2005
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2000 Kooyong Pinot Noir
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Many Pinot Noirs are delicate, sweet fruited and light in body. This wine is devoid of these traits. It is a big powerful wine, reflecting a great warm vintage in a cool climate region. The bouquet sees a combination of three competing flavour groups.
There is fruit, wood and the secondary flavours. The fruit is black cherries with a hint of plums, and very juicy with the wood being spicy and toasty vanilla, whilst the secondary flavours see earthy and compost aromas adding depth.
Once inside the mouth the wine's intensity is immediately apparent. The fruit and oak are more powerful than the secondary flavours which will develop with further bottle age. The finish is long with acid intermingling with firm ripe tannin.
“Strong red-purple, holding its hue well; sultry dark plum and forest aromas provide a replay on the powerful, long and complex palate which avoids over-extraction. An impressive wine with further development potential.”
94pts – James Halliday Wine Companion 2002
“This wine is not for the faint-hearted. For many Australians Pinot drinkers it will seem to be the opposite of what they expect pinot to be because it doesn't' fit in to the lighter, less structured cherry cola style wines that seem to be the norm. Sadly, too many Australian pinots are choked full of sweet fruit while low in tannins. The Kooyong reminds me of ripe Pommard. Toasty oak wraps around a core of ripe, black cherry fruit, backed up by plenty of strong, fine earthy tannins. A richly structured and intense wine, that simply needs more time for all the pieces to come together. And when they do, it will be a force to be reckoned with.”
Divine Food & Wine: Nov-Jan 2003
“This Mornington Pinot Noir has plenty of colour and varietal punch. It shows a strong red fruits character, and is quite firmly structured, flashing some new oak at the moment. Highly Recommended”
WineWise: November 2002
“If you enjoy Burgundy, you'll like this”…….”It's the second vintage of thisk the great Burgundian red variety, from an exciting new winery, Kooyong on Victoria's Mornington Peninsula, mainland Australia's most reliable area for Pinot Noir, has a wine that is not only loaded with Pinot's typical 'gamey' characters but has abundant weight and concentration of fruit flavours.”
The Daily Telegraph: July 2002
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2001 Kooyong Pinot Noir
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This is a luscious, juicy wine full of fruit picked at the optimum level of ripeness. At this stage of the wine's evolution the fruit dominates with dark cherries, plums and a hint of strawberry. To support the fruit there is some spice, earth, and forest floor combined with some toasty oak.
There is great concentration of flavours on the palate with the fruit very much to the fore whilst the wine is youthful. The earthy notes are still very important to the composition of the wine and come through strongly in the aftertaste. Acid, combined with some soft tannin provides the structure and will give the wine some longevity in the cellar
“In Masterclass today, I've gone for the Kooyong 2001 Pinot Noir. Sure it's the current vintage but more importantly, it's the pinot Mosele (winemaker) is, to date, the happiest about. That's saying something because the 1999 and 2000 vintages were impressive, well-structured wines. The 2001 Pinot Noir is even better and for the price, is currently my Pinot of choice.”………… “It's ruby-red and looking great, and to smell, there are wonderful aromas – gamey notes, a touch of cherry spicy-oak with hints of cinnamon and white pepper and savoury characteristics that don't disappoint in the mouth either. The palate is rich, finishes long and it's almost chewy, making it a bloody good food wine.”
Wine Masterclass: Jane Faulkner. The Age, Sept 2003

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SINGLE VINEYARD SELECTION
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2001 Kooyong Single Vineyard Faultline Chardonnay
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An ancient geological fault has shaped both the soil and the slope. This has led to a high mineral content in the soil. Drawing from the soil the wine displays flinty mineral flavours to balance the fruit.
This is a very intense wine. There are mushrooms, plenty of earthy and mineral notes with some extra interest added with some sulphide characters wafting in and out to make this a very deep rich wine.
All of these characteristics are apparent on the palate and combine superbly with a thick, unctuous texture. Whilst the middle of the palate is rich and smooth the finish is clean, refreshing and quite tart with ample acidity.
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2001 Kooyong Single Vineyard Mosaic Chardonnay
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Named after the mixture of different soil types in the vineyard. Visually there is a speckled effect with both sand and clay based soils contributing to the complex nutrient source.
Light gold in colour the bouquet is filled with orange peel and floral scents as well as marzipan overlayed with a touch of honey. It is very complex with several layers of flavour yet it has very little of the more obvious characteristics of Australian Chardonnay.
The palate has a creamy texture with some chalky mineral flavours that weren't so evident on the bouquet. There is a more juicy citrus flavour as well. The acid at the back of the palate defines and prolongs the lingering aftertaste.
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2001 Kooyong Single Vineyard Haven Pinot Noir
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Surrounded on three sides by wind breaking trees this vineyard receives the mildest climatic conditions of any part of the Kooyong property.
There is plenty of plump ripe fruit on the nose here with cherries and plums being the most accurate descriptors. As well as the fruit include some charred oak with some damp earthy characters that make this wine very complex.
When you taste the wine the fruit flavours are more savoury than the impression you get from the bouquet. The earthy notes add an extra dimension. The texture is luscious and silky. As you swallow the wine the structure takes over with both some slightly sour acidity and puckering tannin. These qualities give the wine even more depth and intensity.
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